Week of 1/23/2022 - How I Became a Better Climber

Week of 1/23/2022

I started 2022 with a crazy amount of plans and goals, instead I got COVID and sadness. But not to fear, it thankfully didn't too hard and while quarantine sucked for me and my family I was able to do a ton of strength training. Pull-ups, push-ups, and kettle bell exercises were all I needed to get into send condition.

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1/14

My first session of the year. While it wasn't perfect as you see from the video I managed a crimpy V5 and a body position driven V6. Thankfully doing a lot of yoga in quarantine allowed for the high left heel hook. My biggest take away from the session, is that it isn't always just climbing that makes us better. The majority of my "get better" mantra has been just climb more.

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Get 4-5 session a week in and just climb, it'll grow all the muscles you need. While somewhat true it is vitally important that we implement intentionally strength training in addition to climbing. There are muscles we hit harder and more effectively when we strength train. When climbing you're not going to repeat the same move 20 times, unless you're falling off there, but you will do 20 pull ups and get every ounce of strength out of those muscles you've got. Training also gives us raw numbers to work with. Curling 20s can be increased to 25s, whereas V grades are a bit more.... subjective.

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"If all you're doing is climbing I highly suggest 2-3 times per week do specific muscle groups in addition to climbing. They can be short, but the key is intentional."

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Find a baseline on pull ups, for me it's 15, I broke that into 3 sets with 3 minutes rest. Push-ups was 25, same story 3 sets, 3 minutes rest. For kettle bells I mainly focused on explosiveness and stabilize. For example do an explosive shoulder press then hold and slowly retract to build stabilizing muscles. I found all these to be very effective for me and will impliment for all of 2022.

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1/16

I took the day and had a long bouldering session. I found a smooth slab V6 that sent well and a painful overhung V6 that did not send at all. However with my new strength I lasted significantly longer on an overhang project and think it will go in the next session or two.

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I've avoided overhang for my entire climbing career, mostly because I haven't had the power to maintain it and all it did was hurt my ego. In this case my ego needed to be hurt but I didn't know how to overcome it except by "climb more".

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"Again I say 2022 is the year of supplemental strength training!"

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1/20

Was an evening full of training and benchmark finding. I use the cimpd app to do a finger strength test and found my Max Hangs at 35lbs on 20mm. It's a good starting point and I hope to increase it with specific finger training 2-3 times a week. I also set up a hanging scale to find power per grip. With 132lbs being a full right hand and 52lbs being 2 finger on the left hand. The goal here was to find where I am. It impossible to get where you want to if you don't know where you are.

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"If you have 2022 goals but haven't taken the time to find raw numbers that tell you where you are I highly suggest it."

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It's helped frame my goals, and with the passing of time I'll be able to see if I'm getting closer or what adjustments need to be made. I will retest every month and adapt based on what the numbers tell me and what my body is telling me. It doesn't do me any good to get stronger quick if I'm injured by march. I'll find the balance between pushing for glory and protecting myself to function.

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To Conclude:

1. Supplemental strength train, don't ignore abs and legs. Pick specific rotations of muscle groups/lifts and focus on those in moderation.

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2. Check your ego, maybe something gotta change that you've been ignoring for years, this is the year we stop ignoring it <3

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3. Find where you are, and be honest. Your value isn't dictated by numbers, but the numbers tell you how to get to where you want to be.

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4. Everyone can become a better climber, even in a week, even in your worst week. It just takes intentionality and the ability to forgive a "bad session". We always move up and forward even when if feels like we just fall off backward.

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Much Love,

Seth